Galaga Restore Part 2

Posted January 2, 2016

It’s been a few months since Galaga was mostly wrapped up, with one remaining snag that’s lingering on into the new year. What could it be? How exiting, but first let’s see where we left off.

I applied several coats of paint to the front and back of the cabinet, the coin door, other metal parts and screws. For a rattlecan, as it’s affectionately called, Rustoleum Satin Black actually does a decent job on smooth surfaces. At some point I suppose I really should look into an air gun. There was a stubborn bondo hump on both the coin door and the front of the cab from patched holes which took three or four rounds of sanding and painting but eventually blended in. After a few days of drying, I applied the kick plate and front art, bolted the coin door back on and added new coin door inserts and bulbs. The original Midway coin door plate, despite my best efforts to save it and the rivets, had to be replaced by a repro. Next came the control panel overlay and rebuilding the original joystick, which included replacing the bushings and tweaks to the leaf switches to try and get the stick to center with less slack.

At one point I had intended on adding a Galaga ’88 board to the mix, requiring a double jamma adapter, a Galaga-to-JAMMA adapter, and of course Galaga ’88. Eventually I found the PCB, but it wasn’t cheap and looked so good in the Egret that I decided to skip the dual setup and leave Galaga as original.

The last issue to work out was the finicky K4600 monitor. It had a magenta cast to it, was faded to almost black at the top and overly bright at the bottom, and had occasional flickers of light. I started by replacing the caps and reflowing solder on the chassis — no change. Hoping that it may just need the pots fine tuned, I spent hours calibrating it but the issues remained. Still, it was good experience for someone with no real monitor knowledge, including watching my first horizontal width coil disintegrate.

As I started looking on KLOV for local replacements, Mike offered up a K7000 project monitor. Since the closest alternative was in Sacramento, I agreed to Mike’s generous donation and began researching known issues and buying a few parts: flyback, HOT, voltage regulator, C36 safety cap, and R103. Little by little I replaced the parts that had failed, but I still couldn’t get the thing to power up until Mike pointed out that the middle leg on the HOT wasn’t connected. Fool!

While the K7000 was now firing up, the image was rather magenta again, strangely similar to the K4600 — while I could see red, blue and green individually, it somehow wasn’t mixing for pure whites. To rule out the PCB I tried Gaplus which gave exactly the same results. Then came a series of never ending tweaks and tests, checking B+ (123.6), to more reflowing and calibrations. Mike brought over a test pattern generator which helped since Galaga only displays a test grid. We adjusted convergence, then tried swapping Q201, Q202, and Q203 transistors around on the neckboard. Nothing seemed to help, then at some point we lost blue entirely. Since then some good suggestions have come through KLOV, requiring more time on this before I start hunting for another K7000 chassis.

So Galaga — it’s close! The cab was looking good, though like Gyruss I kept the sides original so it certainly looks better slid in next to other games. Thanks to the enhancement pack it’s now saving high scores like Gyruss. Hopefully with a bit more work on the monitor this project will be completed.

So New It Hurts

Posted December 24, 2015

Over the past couple years I’ve made a few arcade friends, but none who seem as fresh to the hobby as myself. Most people I talk to have been playing shmups for 10-15 years. And a lot of the classic collectors were hauling cabinets across the country in the 90s. I’m only recently consumed with games like DonPachi, Espgaluda and Truxton. Others may have cleared these long ago and are working on their second loop. And these games are only getting more expensive — digging around in forum archives it’s obvious at this point what a seller’s market it’s become.

In a short period I’ve managed to build a little collection of decent boards with good replay value, and enough challenge to keep me occupied for years (cause I suck). After almost three months of Espgaluda I was able to reach Jakou’s first phase near the end, though not often enough to progress much further. I considered using MAME save states to focus on problem areas, as some players suggest, and occasionally used the PS2 port, but really neither were as much fun as playing all the way through in front of a cab. At some point I start to itch for another game, ignore the guilt and swap boards.

My current daily credits have been going into Gokujou Parodius (stuck on stage 3) and DonPachi (stage 4). I’d likely have to play far more every day to get to a place I’d be happy with. But who’s got that kinda time?

Galaga Restore Part 1

Posted September 2, 2015

Once the Gyruss restore was finished (still looking for a top marquee bracket and a Centuri coin door), I slid it against the wall into its home, always intending for it to live in the workshop where it can be played while fiddling with other projects, and is conveniently located for repairs if (when) it breaks one day. The high score save kit really adds an incentive every time I’m down there, and with some LED lights and music, the space is much cozier than it was in January. Of course the more games added the less space there will be for restores (and storage). Some better shelving would likely make room for several more games. There are probably more important projects to occupy my time, like replacing windows, laying a new bathroom floor, and gutting the kitchen, but those things are difficult and costly, and don’t become an arcade game at the end. Guilt aside, I really enjoyed and now miss the stuff that went into the game restore.

It would be nice to take your pick of the games you’d like to restore and play, but the reality most of the time is choosing from what’s available in your area. Texting with my friend Mike that I was feeling fidgety without a project, I offhandedly mentioned wanting a Galaga. The next day he sent me photos of one in the back of his truck that, by chance, he’d gotten a lead on (this guy!). I could hardly say no. Pulled from a hair salon in Fruitvale, it still had the sweet, stale smell of hair products. The game played but with occasional bursts of piercing distortions accompanying the explosions. The K4600 monitor was faint and rather purple, definitely needing cleaned and capped. Also original, for better and worse, was pretty much everything else: cabinet, marquee, glass bezel, joystick, Midway coin door, PCB, and the Midway power supply (though someone had already wired it to use a switching power supply). Most of the pieces were there, though it needed plenty of love, to be expected from something built in 1981 and coined up, according to the coin counter, 143,000 times.

After a laundry list of general supplies like wire wheels for the drill, Citrustrip, and paint, acquiring a shop-vac and an air compressor were the main purchases this time. Then game supplies: new buttons, control panel overlay, monitor cap kit, t-molding, leg levelers, new power supply, coin door bulbs, kick plate and front art. I’m not going to touch the side art — like Gyruss, it has its scratches and gouges but I prefer those scars to the cabinet looking like a brand new box. This is 90% true. As the sides were originally laminate, I’m not sure I want to deal with replacing it, nor do I have a router.

For a couple weeks I just circled the game, making and rearranging a to do list, taking reference pictures of wires and connectors and bolts, then slowly stripping it down and bagging the parts. Placing the cabinet on its side I started the deep clean, vacuuming up wads of hair and dust, and Simple Greening away many layers of funky grime. Now that the cabinet was bare and clean it needed repaired on the bottom corner of the wood that had come apart. Since this wasn’t one of the Ms. Pac-Man plywood cabinets, the MDF was crumbly where some of the white pegs would normally keep the boards joined. After some research and talking to Mike I decided to epoxy the joints, then 24 hours later install six brackets along the inside/bottom edges. Happy with the rigidity of the cabinet, I moved on to stripping the old paint off the coin door and marquee brackets, then scraped off the CPO with a heat gun and a couple rounds of Citrustrip. I’m not sure that stripping down the parts to bare metal was entirely necessary, but I wanted to see how it compared to some of Gyruss’s flaws.

Before painting the coin door and front of the cabinet those pesky security bar holes needed to be filled. JB Weld worked fine on the metal parts (though the holes were probably small enough for Bondo), and a wooden dowel and wood glue plugged the holes in the cabinet. A day or so later I sanded down the excess, then started prepping everything for paint. My list was shrinking and I was beginning to imagine the game happily working and humming its melodies.

JROK’s Robotron

Posted August 24, 2015

Like many early-80s arcade games, my first memories of Robotron: 2084 are fuzzy. It looked old and difficult and, nestled between games a decade younger, probably wasn’t something I put many quarters in. It wasn’t until many years later that I took notice again. Whenever an arcade had a classics row I’d search for it, and when retro arcades started appearing it was one of the first games I’d play. While MAME in recent years has emulated it quite closely, you’re usually missing the dual-stick controls, and that’s obviously a huge part of the game’s appeal. Robotron on Astro City I got used to a PS3 controller and put in many hours in front of my iMac, then later tried Williams Arcade’s Greatest Hits for the PS1 but there the control scheme was even worse.

Created by Eugene Jarvis and Larry DeMar as Vid Kidz and released by Williams in 1982, Robotron had for the time an unusual dual-stick setup: one for moving your character to both rescue your family and avoid being killed, and the other for shooting. You start in the center of the screen surrounded by enemies, then shoot and dance your way to the next level, or wave. There’s something very pure about the experience. It’s immediate and relentless, forcing you to learn some of the strategies in dealing with its patterns in order to survive. “It was vicious and it was mean. I guess maybe the arcade is just a microcosm. Kind of like in the human brain, we have this thing called the reptilian complex. Somewhere deep down in our brain is a guy that says, I want to eat. I want to have sex. I want to kill.” The minimal graphics have kept the game play relevant, and its indelible sound effects still penetrate.

Hoping to one day own the PCB, I eventually gave up when I realized it’s a 6-board stack notorious for failures, not to mention how tough it is to find an original cabinet. One last real option remained. In 2008 the UK engineer JROK began creating his own Williams multigame board, an entirely self contained jamma PCB running on the original 6809 CPU. JROK Multi Williams No emulation, FPGA-fueled, and a spot on match for first generation Williams hardware. Well received, JROK released a couple revisions, most recently this summer which added Robotron’s 2014 Tie-Die roms. Also included on the board is Defender, Stargate, Joust, Bubbles, Splat, Blaster and Sinistar (vertical only).

Robotron on Astro City’s 29″ monitor is very roomy, making the game a little less claustrophobic. While the player one and two sticks aren’t the same height or in the same location as the original, they feel uncompromised. I tried adding some round gates to the Sanwa sticks but somehow the square gates played better. Despite these differences the experience feels authentically Robotron to me, but an old school baller may balk. Like most arcade games, having it in an actual arcade cab has made it even more enjoyable. I sit down, play a few credits, then do something else and come back later when the frustration’s wore off. My score started improving within the first few days, but then I realized it was defaulted to difficulty 3 rather than 5. Boy, to have had 30 years worth of its brutality must be something.

Astro City

Posted August 10, 2015

This addition slipped in about four months ago from my Egret II source. After a few days with the Egret, despite the rotating monitor, I realized I wanted to find a way to fit in a second cab. It’s like salt without pepper, DoDonPachi without Progear. And beyond monitor orientation, playing one game while attract flickers on the other is joy. But considering the costs and space, and idiocy, I tried to push it out of my mind, but every time I rotated the Egret the thought came back.

At some point I measured again to be certain two cabs wouldn’t fit in my office. I’d wanted to move the Egret into the corner anyway, which seemed like the ideal spot for two cabs. Somehow I’d originally miscalculated the dimensions and found there was indeed 70″ free after rearranging some bookshelves. An Astro City was available, looked good, and once delivery was offered it was all over.

When my friend flipped the switch the Nano MS8 lit up in the middle of the day with bright, punchy colors and sharp pixels, making me a little sad when I looked over at the Egret’s softer, more worn MS9. Side-by-side they were truly a handsome duo. I spent a few hours cleaning it up with magic erasers and vacuuming out the prerequisite cobwebs. Luckily like the Egret it needed almost no work other than a bulb and some replacement Sanwa sticks and buttons, and an extra Sega 5380 key.

Only three of my 14 PCBs are yoko, though if you count all the Neo Geo games I guess that makes it about even. Gokujou Parodius alone makes it worthwhile, but it’s really the Neo Geo that lives in the Astro the most.

Gyruss Restore Part 3

Posted July 18, 2015

Finally a Gyruss PCB popped up on eBay which I watched for several days, assuming the price would be driven past what I’d be willing to pay. In the end I got it for $57, quite a lucky break for an original Konami board in such great shape. I stood the cabinet back up and was happy and almost surprised to see the game actually working for the first time. I risked that luck by installing the high score save kit. I desoldered the existing RAM chip but the thing wouldn’t budge. A little solder wick loosened it the rest of the way. Next I soldered on the socket and pressed the new NVRAM into place. But when I powered up the board I saw a strange pattern on the screen. Eventually I realized I’d scratched a trace, and should’ve just cut the legs on the RAM rather than try to save it (as Matt points out). At least I gained a little trace repair experience.

Now it was time to apply the repro control panel overlay. I nervously taped it in place then started peeling off the backing and smoothing it down. All good, though I did notice a slight gap between the metal and the overlay in the back bend. Using the schematic I wired up the new buttons and Monroe stick, wiring it wrong twice before looking closer at the leaf switch placements. The leafs also required some straightening out to smooth the transition from one direction to another.

After talking with Mike, the hobby store dude I bought the cabinet from, I decided to change directions with the paint and try Rustoleum Canyon Satin Black, a spray paint rather than rolling it on. I’d seen his Gyruss restore in person, and photos of his Popeye which had a similar smooth black front, both of which turned out quite well. Two coats within an hour, then repeat 48 hours later. I went ahead and painted the top and back and various parts: marquee bracket, control panel hinge, vents, bolts and screws. For the coin door I used Rustoleum hammered spray paint, then a couple coats of Rustoleum semi gloss black spray paint. I needed to partially sand and repaint the coin door a few times to try and remove some bubbles that kept forming. It probably would’ve worked the first time if I had removed all of the original paint, but I wasn’t overly concerned since one day I’d like to replace it with a Centuri coin door.

While it was on its back I ran new t-molding down the grooves, using liquid nails glue on the bottom to hold it in place. Now that everything was dry I fastened the control panel on the cabinet, reassembled the coin door, then put in the blackout cardboard, original bezel art and smoked plexi. Slowly I realized that these were the last steps and it was more or less finished, after many months of slow progress and a variety of mistakes. After plugging it in I turned off the lights and put a new high score on the board, which beautifully remained once powered off and on.

I’m still looking for a top marquee bracket and replacement speakers, as both the originals have a rip in the cones, though they sound fine. A tube with less burn would be nice, but with the dark plexi in place it’s not too noticeable. The sideart is fairly worn but preferable to a modern replacement, plus I really like the graffiti.

Well, it’s been fun. I’m already missing having a project in the workshop to spend time wtih. Thanks to John’s Arcade videos and forum which have been incredibly helpful, Mike the hobby store dude who’s provided lots of advice along the way, and KLOV.

Gyruss Restore Part 2

Posted July 6, 2015

Back in January when I picked up a Gyruss to try and restore, our basement space I’d hoped to use as a workshop had no electricity other than a dim ceiling lightbulb and was full of discarded paint cans, unused bookshelves, a 100lb bathroom sink and a few spiders. The old, handmade workbench along the back wall held dusty blinds, a rusty mattress frame, and wooden shutters from some depressing far away time.

A few months ago I ordered two LED ceiling lights and brought back the electricians, who rewired several of our knob-and-tube outlets, to install the lighting and add an outlet to each side of the workbench. This motivated me to spend a few nights cleaning and a trip to the dump. Then I slowly started buying the tools I’d never really owned before: Molex crimpers, actually good wire strippers, a soldering iron, a hand sander, and a Fluke multimeter. That was a start.

The Gyruss itself had its own list: a better marquee, a Monroe joystick, a control panel overlay, t-molding, a new power supply, and of course to either fix the original PCB or find a replacement. When powered up both the audio and video were scrambled, and after checking voltages and looking for basic, obvious problems, a few forum posts confirmed it was likely beyond my abilities for the time being.

While waiting on a replacement PCB I cleaned the cabinet, added coin return lamps, Centuri 25 cent decals, a new lock, then tidied up the marquee light fixture wiring and did a tube swap for a less burned Wells Gardner K4900. A few hours alone went into restoring the Monroe stick to its original 360° glory. One night a moment of clarity made me slow down when I plugged in the cab and, having forgotten to put the monitor anode cap back on, created a lovely blue arc between it and the monitor frame.

Somewhere around this time I found another Gyruss PCB. Anxious to install Matt Osborn’s high score save kit, I practiced desoldering and soldering a 40-pin chip on another board, but when it came time to attempt the real thing I realized the Gyruss I had was a bootleg. I returned it and soon found a third board. This one wasn’t cheap, plus shipping from Canada, but it looked nearly new for being 32 years old. Sadly this one turned out to be a dud, so back it went.

Next I began working on the control panel, first using a heat gun to strip off the old artwork, then applying that beautiful pink citrus solvent to remove the remaining adhesive goop. After many messy rounds I sanded it down to its former factory glory, then primed and painted it black with Rustoleum enamel spray paint to prepare it for the overlay.

It was time to tip the game on its back and start sanding the front, as well as fill that extra security lock hole many cabinets end up with near the coin door. A little wood dowel and glue filled it in, then bondo smoothed it and a couple other spots. Now came what I thought would be one of the easier steps, painting the front of the cabinet. My first attempt was to use Rustoleum oil paint with a brush and roller, but this dried exactly as it looked, with lots of orange peeling and little bristle swirls. I tried again with just the brush, and again it dried with all the original brushstrokes.

I was starting to become frustrated with my progress, considering the game itself didn’t work and how hard it had become to find another board, that the front of the cabinet looked like a hand-painted shed, and knowing I still had to sand and paint a pile of metal parts. My lack of experience and limitations were bumming me out. Stay tuned for the exciting conclusion.