Galaga Restore Part 3

Posted January 24, 2016

A few items had remained to finish this project, largely the K7000 chassis. I was losing steam after spending weeks sorting out endless monitor problems. Before I could dive back in with another round of prodding, I suddenly found a box in front of our door containing a Sharp Image monitor chassis. Mike! This guy’s too nice — I’m not even sure where he found this thing. Except for a fairly menacing looking very alive spider, the chassis looked to be in excellent shape. I swapped it in and it immediately worked. Using the test pattern generator I calibrated it with a mirror then mounted it back in the cab. While I value the gained experience of working on an old monitor, in the end simply replacing it turned out to be the sanest option.

There were a couple more issues to work out. One was quick, replacing the 35-year-old 6×9 speaker. It actually sounded fine, but if I could eke out a small improvement, why not. Surprisingly I could find very few 6×9 speakers between $10 and $75, so I chose a Lanzar OPTI2698 — 8 Ohm and capable of 1190 more watts than necessary.

Now for the joystick. Even after previously spending several numerous hours rebuilding the original, it continued to feel sloppy. Worse, the two leaf switches would occasionally need bent again to help the stick auto center, inevitably causing the ship to move on its own in one direction (more on that in a minute) when the strength of both leafs weren’t exactly the same. Rather than try finding another Galaga stick, I started to consider Mike’s suggestion of using a Pac-Pro joystick. While I usually loathe the idea of swapping in modern replacements, the originals just didn’t wear well, and this was still a leaf stick. It mounted on the control panel with a Twisted Quarter Galaga adapter plate, with the oval hole in both acting as a 2-way guide. Unfortunately once the control panel was back on the cabinet, I found that it wouldn’t shut completely — the Pac-Pro base and the top leaf tabs were protruding about 1/8th of an inch too far. The tabs were able to bend 90 degrees, but I had to take the Dremel to one side of the new base. Nothing that’s ever seen, and it fit. I wish the red balltop was the same size and material as the original, but its matte finish matches the overlay well. It’s considerably stiffer but hopefully that will become less noticeable as it breaks in.

Overlapping with the previous issue of the old leaf switches sometimes nudging the ship by themselves, at some point this started to happen even when the joystick wasn’t plugged in. After crediting up, the ship would slowly gravitate to the left in random blips. It turned out to be one of the Namco custom chips, 51xx. I swapped it out with another 51xx on a spare Galaga PCB I happened to have. Previously I’d hoped to fix this second board and sell it, but having a donor board on hand seems a much better idea.

It’s great having the game finished, slid in next to Gyruss, and actually playable. I owe a big thanks to Mike for not only locating and delivering Galaga, but also tirelessly answering my tiresome questions, and problem solving from beginning to end. He elevates “a friend in the hobby” into something we should all hope to emulate.

Galaga Restore Part 2

Posted January 2, 2016

It’s been a few months since Galaga was mostly wrapped up, with one remaining snag that’s lingering on into the new year. What could it be? How exiting, but first let’s see where we left off.

I applied several coats of paint to the front and back of the cabinet, the coin door, other metal parts and screws. For a rattlecan, as it’s affectionately called, Rustoleum Satin Black actually does a decent job on smooth surfaces. At some point I suppose I really should look into an air gun. There was a stubborn bondo hump on both the coin door and the front of the cab from patched holes which took three or four rounds of sanding and painting but eventually blended in. After a few days of drying, I applied the kick plate and front art, bolted the coin door back on and added new coin door inserts and bulbs. The original Midway coin door plate, despite my best efforts to save it and the rivets, had to be replaced by a repro. Next came the control panel overlay and rebuilding the original joystick, which included replacing the bushings and tweaks to the leaf switches to try and get the stick to center with less slack.

At one point I had intended on adding a Galaga ’88 board to the mix, requiring a double jamma adapter, a Galaga-to-JAMMA adapter, and of course Galaga ’88. Eventually I found the PCB, but it wasn’t cheap and looked so good in the Egret that I decided to skip the dual setup and leave Galaga as original.

The last issue to work out was the finicky K4600 monitor. It had a magenta cast to it, was faded to almost black at the top and overly bright at the bottom, and had occasional flickers of light. I started by replacing the caps and reflowing solder on the chassis — no change. Hoping that it may just need the pots fine tuned, I spent hours calibrating it but the issues remained. Still, it was good experience for someone with no real monitor knowledge, including watching my first horizontal width coil disintegrate.

As I started looking on KLOV for local replacements, Mike offered up a K7000 project monitor. Since the closest alternative was in Sacramento, I agreed to Mike’s generous donation and began researching known issues and buying a few parts: flyback, HOT, voltage regulator, C36 safety cap, and R103. Little by little I replaced the parts that had failed, but I still couldn’t get the thing to power up until Mike pointed out that the middle leg on the HOT wasn’t connected. Fool!

While the K7000 was now firing up, the image was rather magenta again, strangely similar to the K4600 — while I could see red, blue and green individually, it somehow wasn’t mixing for pure whites. To rule out the PCB I tried Gaplus which gave exactly the same results. Then came a series of never ending tweaks and tests, checking B+ (123.6), to more reflowing and calibrations. Mike brought over a test pattern generator which helped since Galaga only displays a test grid. We adjusted convergence, then tried swapping Q201, Q202, and Q203 transistors around on the neckboard. Nothing seemed to help, then at some point we lost blue entirely. Since then some good suggestions have come through KLOV, requiring more time on this before I start hunting for another K7000 chassis.

So Galaga — it’s close! The cab was looking good, though like Gyruss I kept the sides original so it certainly looks better slid in next to other games. Thanks to the enhancement pack it’s now saving high scores like Gyruss. Hopefully with a bit more work on the monitor this project will be completed.

Galaga Restore Part 1

Posted September 2, 2015

Once the Gyruss restore was finished (still looking for a top marquee bracket and a Centuri coin door), I slid it against the wall into its home, always intending for it to live in the workshop where it can be played while fiddling with other projects, and is conveniently located for repairs if (when) it breaks one day. The high score save kit really adds an incentive every time I’m down there, and with some LED lights and music, the space is much cozier than it was in January. Of course the more games added the less space there will be for restores (and storage). Some better shelving would likely make room for several more games. There are probably more important projects to occupy my time, like replacing windows, laying a new bathroom floor, and gutting the kitchen, but those things are difficult and costly, and don’t become an arcade game at the end. Guilt aside, I really enjoyed and now miss the stuff that went into the game restore.

It would be nice to take your pick of the games you’d like to restore and play, but the reality most of the time is choosing from what’s available in your area. Texting with my friend Mike that I was feeling fidgety without a project, I offhandedly mentioned wanting a Galaga. The next day he sent me photos of one in the back of his truck that, by chance, he’d gotten a lead on (this guy!). I could hardly say no. Pulled from a hair salon in Fruitvale, it still had the sweet, stale smell of hair products. The game played but with occasional bursts of piercing distortions accompanying the explosions. The K4600 monitor was faint and rather purple, definitely needing cleaned and capped. Also original, for better and worse, was pretty much everything else: cabinet, marquee, glass bezel, joystick, Midway coin door, PCB, and the Midway power supply (though someone had already wired it to use a switching power supply). Most of the pieces were there, though it needed plenty of love, to be expected from something built in 1981 and coined up, according to the coin counter, 143,000 times.

After a laundry list of general supplies like wire wheels for the drill, Citrustrip, and paint, acquiring a shop-vac and an air compressor were the main purchases this time. Then game supplies: new buttons, control panel overlay, monitor cap kit, t-molding, leg levelers, new power supply, coin door bulbs, kick plate and front art. I’m not going to touch the side art — like Gyruss, it has its scratches and gouges but I prefer those scars to the cabinet looking like a brand new box. This is 90% true. As the sides were originally laminate, I’m not sure I want to deal with replacing it, nor do I have a router.

For a couple weeks I just circled the game, making and rearranging a to do list, taking reference pictures of wires and connectors and bolts, then slowly stripping it down and bagging the parts. Placing the cabinet on its side I started the deep clean, vacuuming up wads of hair and dust, and Simple Greening away many layers of funky grime. Now that the cabinet was bare and clean it needed repaired on the bottom corner of the wood that had come apart. Since this wasn’t one of the Ms. Pac-Man plywood cabinets, the MDF was crumbly where some of the white pegs would normally keep the boards joined. After some research and talking to Mike I decided to epoxy the joints, then 24 hours later install six brackets along the inside/bottom edges. Happy with the rigidity of the cabinet, I moved on to stripping the old paint off the coin door and marquee brackets, then scraped off the CPO with a heat gun and a couple rounds of Citrustrip. I’m not sure that stripping down the parts to bare metal was entirely necessary, but I wanted to see how it compared to some of Gyruss’s flaws.

Before painting the coin door and front of the cabinet those pesky security bar holes needed to be filled. JB Weld worked fine on the metal parts (though the holes were probably small enough for Bondo), and a wooden dowel and wood glue plugged the holes in the cabinet. A day or so later I sanded down the excess, then started prepping everything for paint. My list was shrinking and I was beginning to imagine the game happily working and humming its melodies.

Gyruss Restore Part 3

Posted July 18, 2015

Finally a Gyruss PCB popped up on eBay which I watched for several days, assuming the price would be driven past what I’d be willing to pay. In the end I got it for $57, quite a lucky break for an original Konami board in such great shape. I stood the cabinet back up and was happy and almost surprised to see the game actually working for the first time. I risked that luck by installing the high score save kit. I desoldered the existing RAM chip but the thing wouldn’t budge. A little solder wick loosened it the rest of the way. Next I soldered on the socket and pressed the new NVRAM into place. But when I powered up the board I saw a strange pattern on the screen. Eventually I realized I’d scratched a trace, and should’ve just cut the legs on the RAM rather than try to save it (as Matt points out). At least I gained a little trace repair experience.

Now it was time to apply the repro control panel overlay. I nervously taped it in place then started peeling off the backing and smoothing it down. All good, though I did notice a slight gap between the metal and the overlay in the back bend. Using the schematic I wired up the new buttons and Monroe stick, wiring it wrong twice before looking closer at the leaf switch placements. The leafs also required some straightening out to smooth the transition from one direction to another.

After talking with Mike, the hobby store dude I bought the cabinet from, I decided to change directions with the paint and try Rustoleum Canyon Satin Black, a spray paint rather than rolling it on. I’d seen his Gyruss restore in person, and photos of his Popeye which had a similar smooth black front, both of which turned out quite well. Two coats within an hour, then repeat 48 hours later. I went ahead and painted the top and back and various parts: marquee bracket, control panel hinge, vents, bolts and screws. For the coin door I used Rustoleum hammered spray paint, then a couple coats of Rustoleum semi gloss black spray paint. I needed to partially sand and repaint the coin door a few times to try and remove some bubbles that kept forming. It probably would’ve worked the first time if I had removed all of the original paint, but I wasn’t overly concerned since one day I’d like to replace it with a Centuri coin door.

While it was on its back I ran new t-molding down the grooves, using liquid nails glue on the bottom to hold it in place. Now that everything was dry I fastened the control panel on the cabinet, reassembled the coin door, then put in the blackout cardboard, original bezel art and smoked plexi. Slowly I realized that these were the last steps and it was more or less finished, after many months of slow progress and a variety of mistakes. After plugging it in I turned off the lights and put a new high score on the board, which beautifully remained once powered off and on.

I’m still looking for a top marquee bracket and replacement speakers, as both the originals have a rip in the cones, though they sound fine. A tube with less burn would be nice, but with the dark plexi in place it’s not too noticeable. The sideart is fairly worn but preferable to a modern replacement, plus I really like the graffiti.

Well, it’s been fun. I’m already missing having a project in the workshop to spend time wtih. Thanks to John’s Arcade videos and forum which have been incredibly helpful, Mike the hobby store dude who’s provided lots of advice along the way, and KLOV.

Gyruss Restore Part 2

Posted July 6, 2015

Back in January when I picked up a Gyruss to try and restore, our basement space I’d hoped to use as a workshop had no electricity other than a dim ceiling lightbulb and was full of discarded paint cans, unused bookshelves, a 100lb bathroom sink and a few spiders. The old, handmade workbench along the back wall held dusty blinds, a rusty mattress frame, and wooden shutters from some depressing far away time.

A few months ago I ordered two LED ceiling lights and brought back the electricians, who rewired several of our knob-and-tube outlets, to install the lighting and add an outlet to each side of the workbench. This motivated me to spend a few nights cleaning and a trip to the dump. Then I slowly started buying the tools I’d never really owned before: Molex crimpers, actually good wire strippers, a soldering iron, a hand sander, and a Fluke multimeter. That was a start.

The Gyruss itself had its own list: a better marquee, a Monroe joystick, a control panel overlay, t-molding, a new power supply, and of course to either fix the original PCB or find a replacement. When powered up both the audio and video were scrambled, and after checking voltages and looking for basic, obvious problems, a few forum posts confirmed it was likely beyond my abilities for the time being.

While waiting on a replacement PCB I cleaned the cabinet, added coin return lamps, Centuri 25 cent decals, a new lock, then tidied up the marquee light fixture wiring and did a tube swap for a less burned Wells Gardner K4900. A few hours alone went into restoring the Monroe stick to its original 360° glory. One night a moment of clarity made me slow down when I plugged in the cab and, having forgotten to put the monitor anode cap back on, created a lovely blue arc between it and the monitor frame.

Somewhere around this time I found another Gyruss PCB. Anxious to install Matt Osborn’s high score save kit, I practiced desoldering and soldering a 40-pin chip on another board, but when it came time to attempt the real thing I realized the Gyruss I had was a bootleg. I returned it and soon found a third board. This one wasn’t cheap, plus shipping from Canada, but it looked nearly new for being 32 years old. Sadly this one turned out to be a dud, so back it went.

Next I began working on the control panel, first using a heat gun to strip off the old artwork, then applying that beautiful pink citrus solvent to remove the remaining adhesive goop. After many messy rounds I sanded it down to its former factory glory, then primed and painted it black with Rustoleum enamel spray paint to prepare it for the overlay.

It was time to tip the game on its back and start sanding the front, as well as fill that extra security lock hole many cabinets end up with near the coin door. A little wood dowel and glue filled it in, then bondo smoothed it and a couple other spots. Now came what I thought would be one of the easier steps, painting the front of the cabinet. My first attempt was to use Rustoleum oil paint with a brush and roller, but this dried exactly as it looked, with lots of orange peeling and little bristle swirls. I tried again with just the brush, and again it dried with all the original brushstrokes.

I was starting to become frustrated with my progress, considering the game itself didn’t work and how hard it had become to find another board, that the front of the cabinet looked like a hand-painted shed, and knowing I still had to sand and paint a pile of metal parts. My lack of experience and limitations were bumming me out. Stay tuned for the exciting conclusion.

Gyruss Restore Part 1

Posted February 13, 2015

About a month ago I picked up my first arcade cabinet, yes, it’s Gyruss! No not that Gyrus. The 1983 game by Konami with two s’s. Most people I’ve mentioned this to don’t remember it, though if they heard the Bach score they may. Gyruss was perhaps advanced for its time, packing in five sound chips, a DAC, two Z80 and one 6809 microprocessors. Its creator, Yoshiki Okamoto, who also made Time Pilot for Konami, went on to oversee 1942 and Final Fight for Capcom.

I like Gyruss, but it wasn’t on the top of my list. I wanted to start a restore project this year and this cab was relatively cheap and close by. The very first thing that I realized too late that I needed was an appliance dolly — the thing’s crazy heavy. I also need a lot of basic gear that I’ve never owned, like a multimeter, soldering gun, and hand sander. But even before that I need to clean out our basement space to create a little workshop. You know, with things like electricity and more lighting than one 75 watt bulb.

Then there’s the machine itself — while it’s really all there, much of it needs restored or replaced. For starters the previous owner said the PCB produces scrambled video and audio, so getting the game working will be my first goal. The marquee is in ok shape but has a crack down the center so I found a replacement. I also ordered a reprint of the control panel overlay and new t-molding. The cardboard bezel I can recreate, and the original art bezel is fortunately still in great shape. I still haven’t found the original Monroe joystick but they come up for sale often enough. It came with an extra Wells-Gardner K4900 monitor and chasis which I’ll swap with the current Gyruss-burned CRT. Nice to have would be the original Centuri-labelled coin door and Matt Ozborn’s high score save kit.

Sure wish I had a nice, shiny Egret II to keep me warm through this project. Seriously, look at this guy — a Taito stool refurbish!